We start with the same excellent breakfast as yesterday.
On the bus, we travel through the same old dreary heavy drizzle/light
rain. Same old Alps in streamers of fog (actually, it's very pretty).
The bus passes beneath a banner, announcing an "air show" in Reutte
for the weekend of September 5-6. Rick says that he thinks he heard
that the air show was to have consisted of a flyby by a Lufthansa 747 piloted
by a local. The weather appears to have scotched that plan.
Given the terrain, I would hope that prudence would have
canceled it before it started.
We also pass by a hill, at the top of which some ruins are visible.
This is Castle Ehrenberg, which we were to have visited yesterday.
And, we were supposed to visit the summer luge today. These are
concrete chutes, which you ride through on a wheeled sled. The luge
is open only if the chutes are completely dry, since braking is very poor
when they are wet. Gene recalls what happened to him when he convinced
the operators to let him run the luge when it was wet: He couldn't
stop at the end, and got pretty badly banged up. As we passed by
the luge in the rain, they appeared to be thoroughly wet.
We pass by more blue-green lakes, cafe latte streams, waterfalls, and
snow-capped mountains. As we cross the border from Austria to Italy,
the sun magically appears. Gene and Rick pass out cups of valpolicella,
and strike up Dean Martin's "That's Amore". The vino is good
enough. The Dino is NOT my cuppa.
We pull over for a WC stop and a picnic lunch of sandwich (cheese, cold
cuts, tomato, pickle, pickled pepper, and secret sauce), fruit, juice,
and vino (a very nice French beaujolais or a St. Goar white). For
dessert, cookies and Nutella.
We pull into the parking lot in Venice, and troop over to the vaporetto
(canal-bus-boat) station. There, we learn that the Grand Canal is
closed for the regatta, so we end up with a slightly longer hike from the
vaporetto stop. We have to fight crowds, tipsy guys (particularly
on the vaporetto), and a few pushy locals...
Finally, after fighting our way through the crowd that is attempting
to linger on the Accademia (rhymes with macadamia) bridge over the Grand
Canal (in order to observe the regatta), we arrive at Fondazione Levi.
From their brochure, it appears to be a musical studies foundation that
rents its available dorm-like rooms when they are unoccupied.
Our room is spacious and beautiful, with a mini-frig, telephone, wardrobe,
3/4 bath + bidet, and a single bed. There's another single bed and
wardrobe in the loft, up the spiral stairs. Did I mention that this
is a dormitory-style room? Apparently, a few other got double beds,
but it's hard to complain...
We gather in the hotel's courtyard, adjoining the Grand Canal.
This would have been a fabulous location to watch the regatta. Scaffolding
is set up on the canal facade -- there's always restoration going on.
A workman is perched on the scaffold, comfortably watching the activities.
Gene and Rick lead us on a brief, pre-dinner orientation walk.
Getting lost is easy enough. Getting un-lost is almost as easy, so
long as you know your way from a major landmark. Most
major pedestrian intersections (that's a joke: in Venice, all
street intersections are pedestrian) have signs indicating directions to
Accademia (which is right across the Grand Canal from our hotel) and/or
"Per S Marco" ("To St. Mark's Plaza", a 5 minute walk from the hotel) and/or
Rialto (which is nowhere near our hotel, but has some fun shopping and
viewing opportunities). Gene and Rick try to take us on the direct
route to Piazza San Marco, but it is choked with crowds exiting Piazza
St. Stephen after a flag tossing "tournament." We
re-route and enter P. San Marco as the campanile (bell tower) goes off,
hundreds of pigeons start flying about, and crowds are everywhere.
We shop and share gelato (lemon and peach -- excellent!). Six o'clock
approaches and departs -- still no bells. 6:13, and the bells go
off. We ask a store clerk what's the deal with the clock? She
says it goes off according to when the guy sets the clock. No problema.
(Later, Rick relates how he photographed, in a single shot, three clocks
in an Italian train station: each clock was set differently, with
a 15 minute spread between them.)
Dinner is outdoors in a cafe on Accademia side (which Rick recommends
for less touristy fare). "Four Seasons" pizza (mushrooms, marinated
artichoke, ham, and cheese), vino, and water. The pizza is very good
-- thin crust, like New York. (I have to admit that I had believed
pizza to be to Italian cuisine as fortune cookies are to Chinese cuisine
-- American bastardizations/fabrications. I was very wrong.)
After dinner, Robert serenades Donelyn (and us) with an aria from La Bohème.
What an excellent voice he has. I'll take that over Dino, any day!
We walk over to the Bridge of Sighs, connecting the Doge's Palace and
the Prison. Gene reads Byron's poem about the Bridge. Then
we walk back across the Accademia Bridge, in time to see a full moon rise
over the Grand Canal, accompanied by Jupiter. What a sight!
Brig and I hike over to the Rialto Bridge, and window-shop a little
bit. We covet a beautiful red, blue, and woven white glass bottle
across from the (sheesh!) McDonalds. We may have to go back for it.
(After seeing the price on similar stuff, we never did go back.)
By the time we return to the hotel, it's too late to call Stevi to arrange
to meet. Tomorrow morning, I guess.
It's time to do a wash. I'm ready for a sink run, but Brig wants
to use a laundromat. Since it's Sunday, that means waiting.
Because of the tight scheduling, I go ahead and do a wash in the sink.
Thank goodness for Woolite and that clothesline made of surgical rubber
tubing.
I climb up the stairs, do my journal duty, and quickly fall asleep.
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